🌾 Pas-ta'ay 矮靈祭

Pas-ta'ay is the most important ritual of the Saisiyat, one of Taiwan's smallest Indigenous peoples. In the oral history, a race of short people (the ta'ay) taught the Saisiyat farming, songs and dance. A conflict ended with the ta'ay wiped out, and they left a curse behind. The ceremony honors, appeases and finally sends off their spirits.

The full rite lasts about 6 days. The first two are closed to outsiders. Then come three public nights of circle dancing from dusk to dawn: long lines holding hands, chanting songs that are only sung at this ceremony, with the rhythm set by hip-bells (臀鈴) and tall decorated banners (肩旗). Once you're in the line, you don't let go of your neighbors' hands. It's solemn and hypnotic, not a show put on for tourists.

It's held at two sites. The southern group is at Xiangtian Lake, Nanzhuang (Miaoli), which is more accessible and has had a 24-hour shuttle in past years. The northern group is at Da'ai, Wufeng (Hsinchu), which is remote: no shuttle and a car ban in 2024. → Go Nanzhuang.

• Silvergrass on, for you and your gear, before entering the grounds
• Never let go of hands once you're in a dance line
• No arguing, shouting or horseplay; it's considered to anger the spirits
• No flash. Keep photos respectful, and ask before close-up portraits
• Pregnant women traditionally stay away from the grounds
• Don't touch the ritual banners or hip-bells. Follow the hosts' lead on everything

The lake sits at ~740 m, and late-November nights there run ~10°C, often foggy or drizzly. Bring a warm layer + rain shell, comfortable shoes for hours of slow stepping, a headlamp, a power bank, cash (fee, food stalls, taxi), and a dark, plain outfit.

How it works: offer incense in the morning and ask the Water Official to "解厄" (lift misfortune). Simple offerings of fruit and sweets are fine, and many temples sell prepared sets.